The Lizard Look And How To Lose It

Sydney Morning Herald

Thursday June 19, 2008

Words Mary Fallon

There are ways for dry skin sufferers to avoid the dreaded winter itch.

WITH the first frosts of the season, otherwise healthy people everywhere dread the onset of the "winter itch". Dry skin or xerosis is one of the most widespread skin ailments, regardless of skin type or age.

"It can affect the delicate skin of young children and is a nearly universal problem in older skin," says Dr Stephen Schumack, the secretary of the Australasian College of Dermatologists.

About 20 per cent of people are genetically predisposed to dry skin and many more have personal habits that cause it.

Xerosis is a particular concern in winter when low humidity and exposure to central heating conspire to suck moisture out of our skin, and cool winds cause evaporation to finish us off. We tend to have hotter showers, which damage the upper layer of skin, making us more vulnerable to the elements.

Healthy skin is made up of specialised cells that move constantly towards the skin's surface and are stuck together with lipids which act like fatty mortar, keeping moisture in.

Cells also contain natural moisturising factor, which attracts water. When plump cells shrivel, the skin cracks and flakes.

So what are the solutions for the stricken? There is nothing we can do about our personal skin blueprint but we can do a lot to control the conditions that damage our skin. We can also do a lot to repair and protect it.

Change the setting

Skin loses water when the air is dry and the temperature high. Air-conditioning, central heating, wind, electric blankets and heaters all drain the skin of moisture. Turn the blanket off when you go to bed and sit away from the heater. Exposed skin is prone to "wind burn" in winter so rug up against the elements.

Natural fibres allow the skin to breathe but not all are gentle on skin. Cotton and silk make comfortable clothing and bedsheets. Wool, though a natural fibre, may scratch and irritate.

Dermatologist Dr Elizabeth Dawes-Higgs suggests modifying the air in our homes. "Using a humidifier helps to restore moisture in the skin and reduces the amount of moisture that is lost."

Love your fatty layer

Schumack compares the effect of hot water and soap on our skins to mopping up spilled oil with detergents. "We cannot clean up olive oil on a kitchen bench with cold water alone. We need hot water or detergent to degrease the surface. In the same way, showering in hot water dissolves the oils and fats in our skin," he says.

The days of the long shower are over but your three-minute dunk should also be only lukewarm.

The same effect is caused by overuse of harsh soaps. Skin shouldn't feel dry and tight after cleansing but smooth and supple. Squeaky clean means the soap has stripped your skin of its protective oils. It is much better to choose mild soaps with added oils and fats, bath oils or shower gels with moisturisers.

Dawes-Higgs recommends using non-soap cleansers, such as sorbolene or pH-balanced washes. If loved ones insist you use a deodorising soap, restrict exposure of the skin to target areas only.

Dry skin will be sensitive to allergens. Steer clear of fragrances and colours in soaps. In the kitchen and laundry, use detergents that are free of potentially irritating dyes and perfumes.

Always wear gloves for washing up. Go easy on toners, peels, astringents and alcohol-based products - these dehydrate your skin.

Deeper moisturising truths

"It is quantity rather than quality that is important when it comes to moisturisers," Schumack says. "People should be using 300 grams per week over the whole body."

Moisturisers fill the spaces to smooth rough skin and lock in hydration. Using them is the only way to repair dry skin.

Dawes-Higgs explains that moisturisers can have up to three functions, depending on their components. "Moisturisers have components that can replace natural oils, like sorbolene; attract water into the skin, such as the urea-based products; or act as a barrier, like paraffin," she says.

"It's important to remember that the best products to use on your skin are not always the most expensive."

For the most effective uptake of moisture, pat or blot the skin dry and leave the skin slightly damp.

Applying moisturising cream will then lock in the dampness left on the skin. Gentle exfoliation is recommended to get rid of dead skin.

Alpha hydroxy acids or fruit acids found in moisturisers can remove dead cells while retaining skin moisture.

In winter, a thick cream, rather than a lotion, should be used. If the moisturiser runs when applied to the skin, it is too thin.

There is no proof that drinking coffee or alcohol directly affects skin dryness, nor that drinking lots of water or taking dietary supplements improves dry skin.

Rather, Dawes-Higgs says, it is important to maintain a healthy diet that includes essential fatty acids.

Lips

Jodie King, a skin therapist and the owner of Blyss at Clovelly, tells how to care for cracked lips.

* Gently exfoliate with a warm washer or soft, wet toothbrush.

* Use a healing ointment overnight, such as Carmex ($6.95 from pharmacies).

* Apply a lip balm with sunscreen frequently throughout the day.

* Do not lick lips. Moisture evaporates, drying the lips further.

* Avoid flavoured lip balms that can encourage licking.

Elbows and knees

For cracked elbows, heels and knees, King recommends an exfoliation and hydration treatment called Dermalac from Environ. A 200ml tube of fragrance- and preservative-free aqueous gel costs $79.

Hands Helen Thomas, of Spa Chakra, Woolloomooloo, describes the steps for a 90-minute hand therapy and manicure at her salon. Dead skin cells are removed with an exfoliant then a moisturising mask is applied for 10 minutes. This hydrates the skin surface and stimulates the skin's natural moisture reserves. Paraffin wax is heated and poured into gloves and hands are placed in gloves for five minutes. The warmth assists the absorption of moisture. Then a foot- and half-leg massage fills the waiting time. An extension therapy includes a collagen mask between steps three and four. Finally, there is a massage with hand cream.

Cost 90-minute spa hand therapy including manicure, $240; extension hand therapy, $320.

Supple skin basics Take short, lukewarm showers.

* Use non-soap cleansers.

* Pat dry after bathing.

* Use a generous amount of moisturiser.

* Humidify.

* Cover-up.

© 2008 Sydney Morning Herald

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